Science and Technology news... :: View topic - Surge protectors to use with home electronics when grounding

Eeyore · Guest

Rod Speed wrote:

[quote]Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:
Bill Ward wrote:
Eeyore wrote:
disgoftunwells wrote:
Eeyore wrote:
disgoftunwells wrote:
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed....@gmail.com> wrote:

Pure fantasy. Show us the plant doing anything like that.

Here you go:http://www.nanosolar.com/blog3/

It>s actually 100 feet per minute, or about 1mph.(Not even 2
orders of magnitude error)

On the other hand, this isn>t a plant doing 1GW (capacity) per
year. It>s a machine.

They expect $1 / watt.

To the best of my knowledge nanosolar product has not been
independently tested and is only being sold to 'selected'
customers.

At 1GW capacity per year you shouldn>t have to wait too long - I>m
pretty sure their shipping stuff.. Though I don>t think they>ll
deal direct with the public.

Though for some reason their first municipal customer is in Eastern
Germany, that well known sunny spot.

When there>s one of the shelf I can buy I>ll believe it. If they
can do it - GREAT - but I see certain fundamental physical
principles of an extraordinary order that they would have had to
overcome.

Can you elaborate?

My understanding is that the crytsal lattice has to be oriented at a
certain angle for the the thing to function. How you can do that
with printing baffles me.

Also how do you 'print' a diode (which is what a solar cell is)
which is a diffused junction device ?

I think this is the device they>re talking about:

http://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy05osti/37404.pdf

Thanks Bill. That document sheds some light on the matter. It looks
like these were still constructed using sputtering rather than 'printing' though.

And you cant get anything like the 'print' rate they claim using sputtering.
[/quote]
Too damn right. Maybe they came up with something else ? A patent search would be the
only way.

Graham

Eeyore · Guest

John Fields wrote:

[quote]"Rod Speed" wrote:

Nope and leds aint PV collectors anyway.

---
Really?

Connect a voltmeter across an LED, then take it outside and point it
at the sun. What does your voltmeter say?
[/quote]
Thank you for making the point for me.

Graham

Jasen Betts · Guest

On 2008-09-30, Cardinal <john.menken@ceridian.com> wrote:

[quote]I have a little 30rpm motor that I use to turn fishing rods when
applying epoxy to the guides. Unfortunately the 30rpm seems a bit too
fast. Ideally it would be slower like 10 or 12 rpm. Is there any way I
can slow it down?
[/quote]
to do that you may need to slow down the frequency of your AC supply
this will be most difficult.

[quote]Someone told me a rheostat but when I went to price
one at the local flea market it was $13 and had a foot pedal and I>m
not at all sure that would work.
[/quote]
sounds like the controller for a sewing machine.

[quote]Any advice would be most welcome.
[/quote]
the platter motor from an old microwave oven will be much slower.
possibly too slow.

you could look into using reduction gears or belts with your existing motor

or possibly an old record player that>s capable of 16-2/3RPM would work
for you?

Bye.
Jasen

Jasen Betts · Guest

On 2008-10-01, biscuitbecks@cableone.net <biscuitbecks@cableone.net> wrote:

[quote]Are the signals that come out of the headphone jack analog? I would
presume so; please correct me if I am wrong. If they are indeed
analog, does it follow that those signals could be routed into the
amplifier circuit of the vintage radio? If this is feasible, what
would I need to do to make sure the signals from the radio reception
are not "combined" with the new (mp3 device) signals, resulting in a
garbled mess?

Again, thank you for your patience in reading my messages, and for any
ideas you may have!
[/quote]
I have a vintage radio book somewhere ("Lamphouse Radio Data Book" (two
shillings and sixpence)) that explains how to connect a phonograph pickup
to the volume potentiometer of a valve radio...

basically what you do is examine the potentiometer behind the volume
knob, it>ll have three terminals one is in, one is out, and one is ground,

usually the middle one is out. and one of the end ones is ground, and
the other is in.

what you do is disconnect the in wire and connect your programme source
(phonoghaph, cd player, whatever) to the in terminal.

if you want to get tricky you can use a switched socket here so
unplugging your source will recconnect connect the radio>s tuner.

if care is taken this modification will be reversible, so it may not
devalue the radio...

Bye.
Jasen

Jasen Betts · Guest

On 2008-09-29, bgold12 <bgold12@gmail.com> wrote:
[quote]Hey, I>m in 3rd year mechanical engineering and I still don>t feel
like I have a strong understanding of what voltage is. Maybe someone
can help explain the concept.

I>m pretty sure I understand what charge is (it>s just a fundamental
property of subatomic particles that affect the way they interact,
i.e. a charged particle induces a force on a surrounding charged
particle based on their charges (+e for a proton, -e for an electron,
and 0 for a neutron) and the distance and properties of the volume
between them), and I>m pretty sure I understand current, which is just
moving charges (I picture a bunch of electrons moving through a volume
between idle nuclei). But I don>t get the concept of voltage.
[/quote]
if you picture current as the rate of flow of water in a pipe, voltage
is the water pressure.

[quote]I know
it>s produced from a separation of charges, and it is energy per
charge, or Joules/Coulomb, but where is the energy contained?
[/quote]
in the water analogy: Joules / Cubic meter IOW: pascals

[quote]How does the coulomb of charged particles "have" this energy,
[/quote]
it has it by being displaced by a from where it would like to rest
the further it is displaced the higher the voltage.

[quote]and how is it possible that there can be different amounts of energy
associated with a fixed amount of charged particles (i.e. you can have 10 joules/2
coulombs = 5 volts, but you can also have 20 joules/2 coulombs = 10
volts?)?
[/quote]
different pressures, with 10kPa you can spin a turbine nicely,
but same flow rate with only 10Pa behind can do very little work.

Bye.
Jasen

Jasen Betts · Guest

On 2008-09-30, Rose <couple7802002@yahoo.com> wrote:
[quote]My brother in law is a ME. He thinks banging the
mouse on the desk helps speed up the computer.
[/quote]
Unfortunately sometimes it does.

Early versions of one popular M68K based machine (I forget which)
had a bug that was helped by moving the mouse which generated extra
interruots and sped things up.

Bye.
Jasen

Jasen Betts · Guest

On 2008-09-30, Jon Slaughter <Jon_Slaughter@Hotmail.com> wrote:

[quote]I>d rather the guy know squat about electricity and be a great bridge
builder than build shitty ass bridges cause he spent to much time trying to
learn about electricity for some school requirements to "broaden his
horizons". He could have spent that time more wisely.
[/quote]
Bridges are civil engineering aren>t they?

--

Bye.
Jasen

terryS · Guest

On Oct 1, 2:37 am, Wim Lewis <w...@hhhh.org> wrote:
[quote]In article <93e80e6f-66bf-4ea5-96ca-c9f320931...@b1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com>,

jalb...@bsu.edu <jalb...@bsu.edu> wrote:
I am having a little trouble finding a "cheap" source for tunnel
diodes or tunnel diodes in general.

FYI, if all you want is to experiment with negative-resistance circuits,
you can get a vaguely tunnel-diode-like I-V characteristic by connecting
a pair of transistors:

http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Theory/neg_resistance/negres.htm
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/ldbutler/NegResDipMeter.htm

And I hadn>t run across this before today, but apparently you can get a
negative resistance out of a common PN2222A, too:

http://jlnlabs.online.fr/cnr/negosc.htm

--
Wim Lewis <w...@hhhh.org>, Seattle, WA, USA. PGP keyID 27F772C1
[/quote]
And there is an article somewhere entitled, IIRC, "A crystal that can
oscillate". Or something like that. Written in the in the 1920s in
reference to 'crystal set detectors' it talks about what for all the
world sounds like a negative resistance diode. Note.

A later comment was that this might have been a narrowly missed chance
to have discovered the solid state transistor! But tubes were just
being perfected and it was not til WWII was over effort was put
towards solid state devices!

Recall that when first found the article I figured it was just
something about biasing the crystal detector with an adjustable (bias)
battery voltage so as to place it in the most efficient region for
detecting the modulation content of radio signals! But it was more
than that.

Will see if I kept record of it somewhere?

Ah. Maybe this was it (The crystodyne!) http://earlyradiohistory.us/1924sens.htm

Also this link: http://home.earthlink.net/~lenyr/znrfamp2.htm
,is interesting.

Test · Guest

"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:

[quote]
"Test" <test@.nil.invalid.com> wrote in message
news:h9e7e41nc89h5lhrtda26lg466u6pebhoc@4ax.com...
I have a motion detector that I want to get info to my computer. I am using
LPT
port to input data. I could not follow what tripped motion. It has a LED
which
lights up when it detects motion. I measured 1V DC when its "off" and 1.5
when
it>s "on".

What kind of cirquit should I have? On the LPT side a register is on when
a
couple of pins are short cirquited.

It seems a bit pointless for such a sensor to not have an output such as a
set of relay contacts, but if the only output is an indicator LED then the
simplest possible interface is to replace that LED with the LED section of
an optocoupler - that gives you an output in the form of a photo-transistor
which is controlled by the LED, with the advantage that its also
electrically isolated.

If you need the LED indication then include the LED in the collector load of
the photo-transistor.

[/quote]
I have a couple optocouplers
(ohttp://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/2847/MOTOROLA/4N29.html) I
could use. But frankly I don>t seem to get anything out of them. From the spec it
looks like I should apply 3V current to pin 1 and 2. In return I should get
something out of pins 6, 5 or 4. What? Resistance remains full at 4 and 5 no
matter what I do. Voltage is zero at them.

Guest

On Sep 30, 10:07 pm, "Phil Allison" <philalli...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
[quote]Gerbermultit...@gmail.com

A product I am designing requires a series of lab tests to judge
robustness against electrical transients.

One such test is to charge up a 100mH inductor in series with a 4 ohm
load (4ohm load to ground). Then, once the inductor is fully charged,
open the supply current to it from the high side. The resulting field
collapse will produce a substantial negative going voltage spike.

The circuit goes V+ to switch to inductor to resistor to ground.

The DUT is placed in parallel with the inductor/resistor series
combination, at the open end of the circuit once the switch is opened.

My question: I want to prolong the duration of the pulse by a factor
of 10x to create a more destructive burst of energy.

E=.5*L*I^2

I want to keep DC current through the branch the same. With that
said, one would reason I would need to bump up my inductance by a
factor of 10. This would require a 1H inductor!

Is it practical to find such a large inductance? Any ideas?

** All depends on what DC current you are testing at.

Why not tell us ?

..... Phil- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
[/quote]
You know Phil, no matter how hard I try, I always end up leaving out
some vital detail. Thanks for helping me out :).

I would like to pass 3.2A +/- 200mA through the inductor. I realize
that as the inductor gains in size, so will its series DC resistance.
Therefore, at one point I might need to adjust my series resistance to
keep the branch current where I want it. This will result in a very
large inductor. Digikey does not carry these :(.

Gerb

Salmon Egg · Guest

In article <gbvjr0$ueg$3@gonzo>, Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz> wrote:

[quote]Bridges are civil engineering aren>t they?
[/quote]
Some are rocks--like the Wheatstone Bridge.

Bill

--
Private Profit; Public Poop! Avoid collateral windfall!

Jasen Betts · Guest

On 2008-10-01, Hammy <spamme@hotmail.com> wrote:
[quote]Can anyone recommend a BUCK/BOOST Controller?

Preferably with integrated switches.

Vin = 5 to 12V
V out = 6.5V
I out = 1A
[/quote]
you won>t get that from buck-boost.
V out = -6.5V is a possibility though.

Bye.
Jasen

Jasen Betts · Guest

On 2008-10-02, John Doe <jdoe@usenetlove.invalid> wrote:
[quote]Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

There are numerous power tool parts vendors on the internet.
For example, for Black and Decker drills:
http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/blackdecker/blackdecker-7.html
One of several 18V drill motors:
http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-
bin/schematic.cgi/blackdecker/CD180SK_TYPE_1
Item #15 is the motor for $8.31.

I looked up a cordless circular saw on that website. I had hoped that
a cordless circular saw would have a longer shaft. If that circular
saw was typical, at least now I know better. Makes sense that a motor
shaft intended to do work has a gear stuck to it (or maybe a bevel).
[/quote]
No, If you want a hand-held tool motor with a long shaft, get a rotary
tool, die grinder, router, or laminate trimmer motor. most other
hand-held tools have gears. but these ones are direct-drive and the motor
will terminate in a collet chuck (should be real easy to couple to whatever
you want)

Bye.
Jasen

terryS · Guest

On Oct 2, 1:03 pm, John Doe <j...@usenetlove.invalid> wrote:
[quote]Jasen Betts <ja...@xnet.co.nz> wrote:

...

No, If you want a hand-held tool motor with a long shaft, get a
rotary tool, die grinder, router, or laminate trimmer motor.

Cordless? Has to be a DC motor.
[/quote]
I think most cordess maotors are geared.
I have remains of a cordless somewhere (think I know which box it is
in!) which I will find and check the shaft and could send you.
But probably not much point sending from here in eastern Canada when
you could get a second hand cordless drill from some junk store nearby
for a few bucks and take the motor out of that?

Daniel Rudy · Guest

At about the time of 10/1/2008 6:50 PM, John Doe stated the following:
[quote]Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

John Doe <jdoe@usenetlove.invalid

Any good online merchants that sell the equivalent of cordless drill
motors from 14.4 to 36 volts? Any online stores that sell similarly
powerful DC motors in quantities of one?

...

There are numerous power tool parts vendors on the internet.
For example, for Black and Decker drills:
http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/blackdecker/blackdecker-7.html
One of several 18V drill motors:
http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-
bin/schematic.cgi/blackdecker/CD180SK_TYPE_1
Item #15 is the motor for $8.31.

I looked up a cordless circular saw on that website. I had hoped that
a cordless circular saw would have a longer shaft. If that circular
saw was typical, at least now I know better. Makes sense that a motor
shaft intended to do work has a gear stuck to it (or maybe a bevel).

I need to connect the motor shaft to a 5/16" diameter rod. I might try
finding/buying some steel tubing with an outer diameter of 5/16"
(maybe from McMaster), then machine the drill shaft/gear down to the
inner diameter of that 5/16" steel rod, and then roughen the outer and
inner surfaces, and then glue them together. At least that>s probably
better than the last way I stuck a roller to the cordless drill motor
shaft. Just need to keep the metal sawdust out of the motor.

Thanks to the replies.
[/quote]
Try using a shaft coupler. You can probably get one from an industrial
supply outlet for minimal cost.

--
Daniel Rudy

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